Just wanted to add a few random things as a response to recent comments and questions about Japanese sewing books.
- These books almost always include full-sized pattern pieces with the book. The instructions (visual and easy-to-follow) and cutting layouts are given. At the back of the book, there will be a pull-out section. This section, when unfolded, will include all patterns in all sizes. BUT they overlap each other, on both sides of the pattern sheet. So you must trace out your patterns onto tracing paper yourself. In Japan, this paper is readily available in fabric stores, and I think it is the same in the U.S.
- Japanese patterns do NOT include seam allowances. This is mostly because of space and clarity considerations on the pattern sheet, and because the seam allowances are not consistent, and must be checked from the cutting layout diagram.
- On the cutting layout diagram, seam allowances will be clearly noted. Most often by a “2″ or “1.5″ or “1″, indicating the centimeter seam allowance to ADD TO YOUR PATTERN PIECE.
- After the pattern piece has been traced, add the seam allowances to the paper before you cut it out.
- I don’t see as many notches/center lines on Japanese patterns. I often add my own to curves or long, straight parts.
- ALL books that I wrote about in my post last week include full-sized pattern pieces.
- Some books are better than others in terms of ease-of-tracing. Some have only a few shapes on a page, and others look like maps of the Tokyo train system have been laid out one on top of the other! Sometimes it might help to use a highlighter to draw your outline before you trace.
Soulemama made a beautiful top from Girlystyle Wardrobe. There ARE full-size pattern pieces in the book to make that top. But I also must admit that this is one book that fits a lot of patterns onto one page.
With all of that said, it is more than worth it to me to have such a variety of quality patterns offered in one, reasonably priced book. But honestly, not all books are reinventing the wheel, and if I did not read Japanese and have access to these books for cheap, I might be happier using my sewing time on patterns that I could fully read. I love a challenge, and the illustrations in these books are great. I think it depends on personality.
13 responses so far ↓
amy k. // May 21, 2007 at 3:59 pm
wow-thanks for this. I know there are so many questions out there about if you can really sew from these books-and I think the answer is yes you can, but there are a lot of things to consider before you dive in. . .
Heather // May 21, 2007 at 6:51 pm
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I just recently stumbled upon your blog and I really appreciate your responding to my query about the patterns. You have been super helpful and the clothes that you have been making are just exquisite! P.S. I perused your archives and loved the liberty doll quilt and dress for your daughter.
amanda // May 21, 2007 at 8:00 pm
great tips, and I couldn’t agree more about the personality/mood thing - I think youve’ got to be up for a bit of an adventure before you dive into these!
bex // May 21, 2007 at 9:59 pm
I found you just now through the wonderful ’soulemamma’. I had no idea you existed! I’m in Japan too, in Shimizu, Shizuoka. I’m so glad I’ve found you, someone to read that I can really relate too. I’m so excited… Yeah you!
Josie // May 21, 2007 at 11:13 pm
Thanks for all these great tips. I have that very book and have been tempted but kind of wary too. I should also mention that I love using swedish tracing paper (available through amazon) it is perfect for tracing patterns as it is wide and on a long roll plus you can even sew it. Thanks again
theflyingmum // May 22, 2007 at 10:21 pm
that popup that happens when you scroll over soulemamas link tag is THE BOMB!
wish blogger had that **sigh**
christel // May 25, 2007 at 7:19 pm
Thanks for these answers to my questions! Although I did think seam allowances were not included, it’s nice to read it confirmed.
Shay // May 30, 2007 at 12:19 am
as an alternative to tracing paper, which can get expensive , I wait for chain fabric stores to put cheap non-woven interfacing on sale. Works very well and doesn’t tear.
Willow // June 26, 2007 at 4:40 pm
I found something quite similar to tracing paper on a roll once at a dollar store in with gift wrap (it has pink flowers on it, but who cares).
If you can, can you confirm if gum tape (ゴム テープ) is elastic? I was inspired to buy Koharu no Fuku and Basics for Girls, and am trying to make dress #a in Koharu no Fuku, and I think it’s elastic I need for the neckline, but I don’t quite get the gum tape reference.
michellegiacobello // July 6, 2007 at 3:31 am
Oh Wow!
So helpful thanks very much :)
Jen // July 23, 2007 at 4:15 pm
You are the best! Before I got your note on my blog, I read a few of your posts on Japanese patterns/crafting and they helped tremendously. This one probably helps the most though!
Luckily I emailed Mariko at SuperBuzzy and she filled me in on the “no seam allowance” thing and what the size 90cm actually translated too in US sizes. Both of those mistakes probably would have permanently discouraged me from pattern sewing. I actually figured out the trace paper on my own - I use it everyday at work and it seemed logical.
Thanks for pointing me to your blog - it is for sure one I will be haunting (you’re sewing is beautiful by the way)!
lunemalo // April 24, 2008 at 12:05 pm
Just great ! You really made things clearer for me ! There’s a common thematic blog here in France around those books and patterns. I bought two of three of them but haven’t been brave enough to try and sew something yet ;-))
Franca // May 22, 2008 at 11:13 am
I too stumbled upon your web site bymistake my psyche seemed to remember Threads writing about Jap pattern books sometime ago. So not having much to do at work I thought I would browse. What a wealth of information - I am an experienced sewer so I am definitely going to try these. I too like a challenge so diciphering the pattern will be fun. Let you know how I get on
Franca - London
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